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Geekvape Creed RTA – Replaceabe Airflow in a Tank?

So we’ve seen this before in a lot of new RDAs – replaceable airflow inserts. We’ve also seen in the Skyline and a few other tanks, although the Skyline still does it the best. This concept of replaceable airflow options makes the tank a whole lot more flexible to a wider range of vapers.

Now a single tank or RDA can be used for cloud-chasing or a more relaxed vape. The Geekvape Creed wants to cash in on this new trend.

On the outsied I have to admit it looks pretty much like the Ammit, or any other Geekvape RTA we’ve seen so far. The magic is really on the inside, with three airflow options.

Here’s what I know of so far for the Geekvape Creed RTA:

  • 25mm diameter, stainless steel construction
  • Velocity-style (yes) deck for dual-coil builds
  • juice capacity using a “bubble” glass tank
  • Top-fill with 810 size driptips
  • Available in multiple colors

Although the airflow is at the bottom, it’s hard to call this a bottom-airflow tank. If you look closely at this picture, you can get a better idea of how the air will be fed in from the bottom, but eventually hits your coils from the side:

The airflow is encased by the top chimney section, so there should be no issue of flooding or leaks. It’s a pretty ingenious solution, and all those small holes look like they are going to produce a smooth restricted vape.

Very nice.

However, there may still be concerns of leaks or flooding. It all depends on how well they build this, and the tolerances. Anothing thing to consider is the actual available area for your coils. It looks like although this is a 25mm tank, the build area is going to be pretty small.

If you want to give the Geekvape Creed a try, you can get it now from GearBest at about $36.

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LostVape Furyan – High-End Looks on Affordable Squonk Mod?

I’m still waiting for this to arrive, but I think LostVape has done a fantastic job with this. The Lostvape Furyan is their latest squonk mod, with the last mod they released, the Therion, now considered “old”.

Unlike the Therion BF which is a regulated DNA75C squonk mod, the Furyan is a pure mechanical mod. Here are the specs:

  • Polycabonate / PEI body with carbon fiber tube
  • Easy access to locking toggle switch at the front
  • Compatible with 18650 / 20700 / 21700 high-drain batteries
  • Supports minimum resistance of 0.1Ohm
  • Spring-loaded 510 connector, stainless steel
  • Silver-plated copper contacts for a better conductivity

First off, this is way better looking than the Therion. Sure, the Therion wasn’t ugly by any means but it is pretty large for a single 18650 mod. I have 20700 DNA75C mods that are more compact than the Therion, and 18650 ones that are smaller still.

With the Furyan, they decided to go a different route.

I’m sure some people in Lostvape have a keen eye for designs used in the high-end segment of squonking, because the Furyan could easily be mistaken for a high-end squonker.

At the moment, you can get it in either the PEI/ brass or black/ stainless steel setups. Although I am not a fan of Ultem, the combination of Ultem and brass actually works.

Plus, this mod can be disassembled pretty easily for cleaning the contacts. So far, from the reviews I have seen the Furyan looks to be pretty well thought-out. My only gripe is that the ultem is polished instead of amber, which I prefer.

I really hope to see more variations of the Lostvape Furyan in the near future. Gearbest is selling them at about $89 for the Ultem / PEI version, and you can occasionally find discounts on the website.

If you would like to see my review on the Lostvape Furyan, do let me know.

You can get the Lostvape Furyan from Gearbest here.

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DPM Li-Mo DNA75c Review – 20700 Version!

Li-Mo versions. I’ve seen the Li-Mo go through some practical changes, especially to the squonk door and bottle design.

I’ve also picked up another Li-Mo DNA60, but ended up selling both my Li-Mos when they announced a new DNA75C version.

The initial DNA75C versions were black Delrin and polished Ultem, both of which didn’t make me want to get one in a hurry. But this latest version you see in the video, made from black Ultem and sandblasted throughout, really caught my attention.

The sandblasted body and 510 / bottom plates really complement each other and make the mod look much higher quality. This is subjective I know, but I prefer matte-looking stuff over shiny stainless steel.

The one you see here has the carbon fiber upgrades for the faceplate and bottle door, and cost me a total of $350. That’s much higher than my first DNA75 Li-Mo, but Ultem is more expensive anyway. They have 18650 variants as well, but I wanted to go with the 20700 version as I felt it better complements the DNA75C.

So here’s the summary of my review for the DPM Li-Mo DNA75C.. but keep in mind there are different finishes and versions for it.

DPM Li-Mo DNA75C: Pros

  • Great build quality – I’ve owned two Li-Mos before this, and I notice a significant improvement in overall quality. Compared to earlier versions where the bevelled edges seem like they were hand-made, all the lines on this Li-Mo were super smooth. The sandblasted finish was perfect, and even the carbon fiber panels were better finished.
  • Fits 24mm RDAs – Another reason I wanted the 20700 version over the 18650 was the fact that the 20700 version fits a 24mm RDA nicely without overhang. With the 18650 you would get a slight overhang from the bevelled edge. Plus, taller RDAs would not look weird on this one like they do on so many of those tiny squonk mods.
  • DNA75c board – It’s clearly better than the DNA75 in all areas. Plus, with the new “Replay” feature it makes it better than most other non-DNA boards as well.
  • Lukkos Silk bottle – They come stock with the Li-Mo, and are a great finishing touch to make this a high-end mod. Although some people swap these out right away to the Lukkos square or other square bottles, I prefer round ones. I think square bottles work great when you press the flat sides, but not the edges like you would on the Li-Mo.

DPM Li-Mo DNA75C: Cons

  • The “large” size – The size is not that big for a DNA75c/20700 combo – it’s about the same size as the Pulse 80. However, it feels larger. I think this is mainly due to the bevelled edges as opposed to rounded edges. But hey, the “boxy” look is what the Li-Mo’s are about. DPM makes other rounded mods like the Casper if you have boxy-looking stuff.
  • The squonk hole – Due to the position and the sharpness of the squonk hole, it does take a bit getting used to. This was the same for the first Li-Mo I used, and I eventually got used to it.
  • The price (subjective) – I paid $350 for this mod, but that’s because I took all the best options. For example, if you choose the Delrin version, 18650 and no sandblasting, the cost will be much lower.

Overall, I am 100% happy with the DPM Li-Mo DNA75c. If there was one thing I could change, would make it easier to replace the faceplate.

See, I also got the regular sandblasted and Ultem faceplate / squonk door combos. However, I cannot actually use them. According to DPM the faceplate is pressure-fitted. That means all you need to do is knock the mod firmly on a safe surface, and the faceplate should pop right out.

I tried knocking the shit out of it and the faceplate didn’t budge. I could knock harder but I’m afraid of damaging the mod.

Other than that, the DPM Li-Mo is a clear winner. It has a unique look, a great board and the improved squonk system makes it much easier to change bottles.

Highly recommended!

To pick up one of these, just join the DPM group and contact one of the admins. You can place your order right away with 50% upfront payment. Your mod should be completed in less than two weeks. Settle the balance and it will be shipped to you via DHL.

Join The DPM Mods Group

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Wotofo Recurve RDA by Mike Vapes – Full Review

When it comes to good single-coil squonking RDAs, I always have better luck in the higher end of vaping. My favorites like the Basic RDA, KRMA, Haku and Venna are all from the higher end and cost upwards of $100.

Most of the single coil squonking RDAs from China have been disappointing in terms of design, flavor or both. That’s why I was a bit sceptical of the Wotofo Recurve RDA by Mike Vapes. I’ve reviewed Mike Vapes stuff before, and they are usually designed for cloud-chasers. I didn’t expect this to be any different.

I was wrong. Although it looks very much like a Chinese-designed RDA, and airflow is very unique. This RDA was definitely meant for flavor-chasing, the fact that it is 24mm is actually very misleading. The build deck itself is only about 20mm, but the thick topcap makes it 24mm in total overall diameter.

At about $25, the Recurve comes in many different colors and is made from 304 stainless steel. It has a single-coil postless deck with an “airflow wall” as I like to call it. The wall actually has six small airflow holes on either side. You control the side airflow by twisting the topcap.

The Wotofo Recurve comes pre-installed with the bottom-feeding pin, and you get a standard 510 pin as well. Plus, there’s almost no juice well on this RDA, which means it was designed first as a squonking RDA.

So here’s what I think about the Recurve…

Wotofo Recurve RDA: Pros

  • Smooth airflow & great flavor – The flavor I was able to get from this is on par with a lot of the more expensive RDAs I have tried. The airflow is more open as well, perfect if you want bigger clouds.
  • Easy to build – The post-less decks are straightforward and can accommodate larger diameter coils easily. The included Nichrome coils work perfectly and produce clean flavor.
  • 810 & 510 compatible – You get an adapter for using regular sized 510 driptips, plus you get an additional 810 driptip in the kit.

Wotofo Recurve RDA: Cons

  • Un-sexy design – I loved the one I reviewed because it is black and has that cool smoked 810 driptip. But when I take a look at the regular stainless steel version, it feels like just another Chinese product rehashing the same design elements I have seen before.
  • 24mm diameter – I would not usually list it as a con, but this could be a 22mm RDA. The topcap is thicker than it needs to be, or maybe there’s a reason for that. In any case, there should be new PMMA topcaps out soon. These should be simplified and 22mm in diameter.
  • Tiny juice well – No problem for squonking, but not meant for dripping.

Overall, I liked the Wotofo Recurve RDA. It didn’t blow my mind, and the flavor is not the best I’ve had.

But for the price, it’s a damn good single-coil squonking RDA. I’ve added it to my list of best squonking RDAs, although I think the upcoming new PMMA / PEI topcaps will take it to the next level in terms of sex appeal.

Click Here to Get The Wotofo Recurve RDA

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Review of Hellvape Aequitas RDA by Ambition Vaperz

I’ve reviewed the Hellvape Dead Rabbit RDA before, and I wasn’t too excited. Nothing wrong with the RDA, it’s just another cloud-chasing thing that I’m not into. I thought the same for the Hellvape Aequitas RDA, as they look pretty similar in many ways.

However, there’s more to the Aequitas (I sometimes say Aqueitas) than meets the eye. Designed by Ambitionz Vapers, a popular Youtube reviewer, it’s based off the best parts of the Drop and Dead Rabbit. Some would say it stole the best parts of them, but from what I understand Derek (Ambitionz Vapers) has the green light from Hellvape to do so.

The Hellvape Aequitas RDA is dual coil 24mm postless (or short posts?) RDA with “reversible airflow” This essentially means that you can flip with barrel of the RDA to have the airflow pointed upwards or downwards. Of course, you will need to adjust your coils accordingly.

Comes with an 810 driptips but compatible with 510 tips via an adapter provided. Building and wicking is very similar to the Drop / Dead Rabbit, although the airflow is channel inwards a little bit for more intense flavor.

Retailing at $25, the Aequitas RDA comes with both BF and regular 510 pins, and available in many different colors.

So here’s my review…

Hellvape Aequitas RDA: Pros

  • Good build quality – Nothing to complain about the build quality, just like the other Hellvape products I have reviewed before. Arrived clean and oil-free, but I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner just in case.
  • Good airflow & flavor – This is going to be subjective. It really depends how you position the coils and the airflow. I preferred to point the airflow downwards, and pull my coils closer for more intense flavor. This gives me the best results.
  • Clean design – Not too loud with the logo, and the driptip is my favorite color! I cannot speak about other variations, but I do like the subdued design elements.
  • Easy to build – Again, this is no surprise to people who loved the Drop and Dead Rabbit.

Hellvape Aequitas RDA: Cons

  • Pretty tall (subjective) – For using on a squonk mod, it looks too large on most of my tiny squonk mod setups. but with larger mods (dual battery) it looks right in place.
  • No single-coil reducer (subjective) – I know I have a lot of single coil RDAs, so there’s no big deal with a dual coil RDA that doesn’t have a single coil reducer. But bear with me, I;m running out of cons to suggest.

Overall, I definitely like this more than the Dead Rabbit. However, I’m still not a fan of dual coil RDAs with the exception of my Hobo Drifter.

I’m still going to list this on my best squonk RDAs list though, as there aren’t that many good 24mm squonk RDAs around still.

Click Here to Get The Hellvape Aequitas RDA

Vaping Gear

Squonking Vs BilletBox

Squonking is in full stride now, with even the most obscure Chinese companies getting in on the action. You’ve got tons of options to choose from when getting a good squonking mod or decent squonking RDA. From high-end devices costing $450 to the affordable and awesome Pulse 80 by Tony B, it’s easy to get overwhelmed.

All the while, BilletBox fanfare appears to be in decline. Once the most sought-after type of device, today the BilletBox is easy to purchase and always in stock on most websites. It’s still a good device and almost everyone I know still owns one, but the hype train left a long time ago.

But today, all I really want to talk about is the similarities between squonking and the BilletBox. For the purpose of this argument, I consider the BilletBox as a platform more than a product. It’s a box that can take in a whole range of “bridges” like the Steamtuners Insider, Exocet and more.

Both squonking and BilletBoxes aim to solve some of these issues:

  1. Having a large juice capacity for an all-day vape
  2. Having a small, compact device that is portable
  3. Convenience without constant dripping and refilling

Otherwise, they are pretty different. BilletBoxes are built like a proprietary system, in a lot of aspects. You can also think of it as a “mod” in that sense, since the only part of it that is open is the type of bridge you use. Accessories are limited to doors / panels, as nothing else on the BB is really customizable.

Squonking is way more open, with interchangeability between the mods and the atomizers. Squonking has a lot of appeal because of the wide range of accessories you can get to “dress up” your combination – from top caps to beauty rings, doors and panels – you can spend quite a lot on just the accessories for a single mod.

A while back I asked this question on my FB:

“If you could choose between squonking and the BilletBox, which one would you go for?”

The answer seems to be that most people prefer the diversity of squonking. Keep in mind that the BilletBox isn’t cheap. It’s a pretty decent chunk to pay for limited options.

However, when it came to portability and travelling, the BB seems to be the winner.

Squoning, in reality, is pretty messy. Oversquonking and leaky bottles are always an issue. Most squonk bottles hold up to 8ml which for some people only lasts half or 3/4 of a day.

Plus, the safety aspect when using mechanical squonk mods. I almost never bring a mech squonk mod when I travel. I just don’t want to take chances when my attention is porbably going to be diverted away by my kids.

The BB can be messy as well, but to a lesser extent. One thing I’ve always wondered about the BB is why they designed it in such a way that condensation can occur right above the DNA60 screen. There are plugs for this of course, but you still get a wetness inside the BB from all that condensation.

When you’ve wicked incorrectly however, the BB is a way more messier experience. You have to drain out all your liquid just to change cotton or put in a new build. So I tend to go with “safe” round wire builds in the BB.

At the end of the day, I agree with most of the answers I got.

I prefer squonking for pure vaping pleasure. I prefer the BB for travelling and convenience. Both are great in their own way.

AIO systems like the BilletBox never really gained as much traction as squonking and probably never will. However, I do hope that the BilletBox remains and improves on its design for greater convenience in the future.

I would love to see a future version with a USB port and more a more sensible airflow intake.

Vaping Gear

I Bought The Moddog Pulsar!

I’ve blogged about the Moddog Pulsar before, where I mentioned how silly it was to use a proprietary battery cap that can only be removed with the Moddog custom tool. Although I really wanted to get a Pulsar (or something like it), I thought I would wait till they made it better.

Recently, I came across a For Sale post in a Facebook group. The seller was selling his Pulsar with the new 3D printed body you see above, 20700/21700 tube upgrade kits, carbon fiber 21700 tube and a whole lot of spare bottles for a good price.

Still I waited, not sure what to expect from the Pulsar. I kept looking at the post every day but it seems like no one wanted to grab the deal. It felt like destiny, and I went ahead and grabbed the deal for myself.

I was very surprised by the Pulsar. Although I remember watching some reviews a while back, I forgot exactly how innovative the Pulsar is. The mod comes fully disassembled, which was interesting, but there are a lot of innovations in the bottle system that no one really explained well.

Anyway, here’s how the new battery cap looks like:

To be clear, this is most probably an OG Pulsar with upgraded battery cap. The original “Paw” cap was nowhere to be seen, but it did come with the Moddog keychain tool for the Paw cap.

Here’s how it looks with the KRMA Bright, with a sandblasted top cap

The new Pulsar comes in a few different color options like black, red and blue. The differences are very minor, mostly with a new BF pin and a new bottle lock for the BF pin other than the battery cap.

I went ahead and ordered the Pulsar leather case from the Original Moddog website. You can easily get a Pulsar from the website, most of the colors are in stock. You can also buy the 3D printed bodies and Pulsar parts.

I think I really love the Pulsar. So far, nothing to complain about. The 3D printed body just makes it look like a completely different mod, and its very easy to switch between bodies. The bottle has a huge capacity and works flawlessly. The Moddog 510 hits hard. 18650, 20700 and even 21700 batteries.

Unlike a lot of Italian mods that are just about the looks with almost no real innovation, the Pulsar has tons of little innovations everywhere. I really have nothing to complain about this mod.

Building & Wicking Vaping Gear Vaping Videos

DNA75C / 20700 Analog Box Mods (ABM) Kit – DIY Squonk Mod Part 7

I never expected to get this far in the series, let alone build a regulated mod by myself. And yet, here we are! I am going to build the DNA75C 20700 squonk mod by Analogboxmods.

If you have not looked at the other mods I built getting to this point, do take a look at them:

Besides the failed Sledz mod, I enjoyed building all those mechanical squonkers. I’m ready to move to the “big league” of regulated squonk mods.

Even before I started this, I knew that the most difficult part for me would be soldering. So I watched a ton of Youtube videos, picked up a new soldering iron and even wasted a few soldering tips by oxidizing them pretty fast.

Watch this: Soldering basics

Still, I kept on trying until I felt I was ready to do the real thing.

The step-by-step video tutorial by ABM helped a lot on filling the gaps. The video is very informational and I recommend you watch it after you watch mine. I do not show you the soldering parts because the ABM video already does an excellent job at it.

How much does it cost?

The ABM DNA75C squonk mod kit starts at CAD $105. However, that price is for the DNA75 option with unfinished aluminum enclosure. To build a DNA75C with the ModMaker 510 and powder-coated aluminum enclosure you see in my video, it would cost about CAD $127.

At that price you get the complete kit that contains:

  • The milled aluminum enclosure, door and magnets
  • The DNA75C board from Evolve
  • The ModMaker 510 complete with soldering tabs
  • A brass / copper contact plate for grounding
  • A 3D-printed holder for the DNA75C and mounting screws
  • Two keystone contacts and 3D-printed battery / bottle sled
  • The required 16g and 18g / 24g tinned copper wires for DNA75C
  • A PET or silicone squonk bottle

I loved the fact that I would get everything I needed to start building right away. This is a huge time-saver for me. It saved a lot of money too, since I could pay only once for shipping instead of buying bits and pieces from multiple websites.

I also recommend getting additional keystone contacts when you buy the kit. Your first attempt at soldering the wire to the keystone contacts may be a complete disaster. It will be more motivating to scrap the failure and start on a fresh new set.

As expected, the biggest challenge was soldering. If you’re new to soldering, please do not try doing the mod. Instead, try soldering other random stuff.

  • For example, cut a bit of the provided wire, strip away the silicone, and try putting some solder on the exposed copper. If you cannot do this yet, you’re not ready to assemble the mod.
  • You can also try soldering one end of the wire to the other end or to a scrap piece of brass / copper. This is harder than you think.
  • I found it easier to tin both connections first, then solder them together with some flux.

Here’s the list of other tools you might need, that will make the whole thing a lot easier to do:

Also, it’s a good idea to plug-in your DNA75C via USB to your computer right away and make sure everything is working. In my case, the screen was defective and ABM sent me a replacement immediately.

When I finished this mod, it was like a huge veil has been lifted from my eyes. I can see clearly now, the rain has stopped. I can see all the obstacles in my path to making my own mod in the future.

I have now actually build a regulated mod!

Sure, I didn’t mill the body or design the 510, but I did put everything together. I feel like I appreciate the work of modders so much more, and understand what goes into building all those mods I reviewed in the past.

The next project is to build the Floris DNA60 squonk mod. In terms of difficulty, that project is a few steps above the ABM mod. But without this DIY project, I would not have the confidence to move forward.

So thank you ABM!

The mod I build will be put up for auction at the cost price, and the money I get back will really help me a lot in future DIY projects. So do take a look at it and put in your bid.

Building & Wicking Vaping Gear Vaping Videos

FAILED Sledz Mech Squonker – DIY Squonk Mod Part 6

In this installment of DIY squonk mods, I show you how to build the Sledz mod. Do also take a look at the first five parts:

Sledz was in my initial research. Although I knew it was not going to be as good as the ModMaker / Shapeways combo, I decided to do it anyway. I actually ordered two mods that came with doors, two additional doors and a couple of additional buttons.

The idea was that I would build these and just give them away, since they are so cheap. However, I didn’t get very far.

I noticed right away how raw these boxes were, again comparing to the Shapeways print. The measurements were off for the button (actuators) holes. Print lines were very obvious on the enclosure, and a lot of work was needed to smother these out. I tried sanding them smooth to some extent, but it was tough.

Eventually, I tried to dye one of the mods purple using my regular method of dying 3D printed mods. To my shock, the mod shrunk and warped out of shape barely two minutes into the dye mixture.

So I sat down again thinking how I can get this done. I still had another enclosure to show you. However, I wanted to show you how to make the Sledz mod way better in terms of looks and feel.

Eventually, I lost interest in it. At this time, I had already received the Analogboxmods DNA75C DIY kit, and parts of the Floris DNA60 squonk setup as well. It just didn’t seem worth my time to try to make this mod good.

I mean, it’s cheap but not that cheap. The price difference between these and the ModMaker 18650 mod was about $14 but the quality was way inferior. These seem to be printed on a low-cost 3D printer, probably one in the shed. The material used is most probably PETG and is not heat-resistant.

However to be fair, this was the cheaper option. They do have an Alumide option for squonk enclosures that seem much better made.

So, I’m calling this a FAIL and moving on. Even if I did fix and build it, I don’t think I would enjoy using it. I also don’t think it would be safe to use in the long run especially if you like a hot vape. I have a DNA75C and DNA60 squonk mods waiting to be assembled, and I just cannot find the motivation to get through this one.

So if you want to check out their Alumide enclosures, you can visit the Sledz online store.

Live and learn. Moving on to the next DIY project.

Vaping Gear Vaping Tips

New‌ ‌SVF‌ ‌510‌ ‌–‌ ‌How‌ ‌Does‌ ‌It‌ ‌ Work?‌

A while back, I bought two new SVF 510s from the Squonk America group buy, and to be honest I wasn’t sure why. I probably thought I could use it on one of my DIY squonk mod videos, although these are for mech mods only and I’m about done with mech mods for that series.

The one thing I was sure of it that these SVF 510s were made of silver (99% I think?) and they can be locked. The post wasn’t too detailed about the measurements of other stuff.

When I first got it, I was confused about the locking system. It seemed so simple, and no locking in sight. It was also not spring-loaded. Took me a few minutes, but eventually I figured it out.

So here’s how the SVF 510 works.

There are just four pieces as you can see from the picture – 510 plate, 510 pin & nut, securing nut and PEEK insulator. In fact, I don’t recommend taking out the PEEK insulator at all – you don’t need to and it will reduce the life of your SVF 510.

So you screw the 510 pin into the PEEK counter-clockwise until it touches your RDA’s 510 and makes a connection. If there’s a gap between your RDA and your mod, turn the 510 nut clockwise to lower the 510 pin and screw in the RDA a little bit more.

You’ll have to adjust the pin manually for every RDA, but unlike other 510s that require a screwdriver, the SVF 510 does not.

So where the lock? Basically, just turn the 510 pin / nut counter-clockwise until it no longer connects. In reality, this is pretty easy to do even when the SVF 510 is in your mod. Using your thumb, you can grip the nut easily and just give it a small turn to disconnect.

The 510 but is rigid enough to stay in place. When you want to unlock, jus turn it clockwise and it will make a connection to your RDA. That’s it!

The only concern here, is the PEEK insulator. How long will it last before the thread are completely ruined by all that turning to lock / unlock it? I guess time will tell.

For now, it works and it works well. It hits really hard due to the fact that there are so few parts, and therefore almost zero voltage drop. Silver is a great conductor of electricity too. If your contacts are also silver, you get the best hit from your batteries.

You might need to get used to this method of locking & unlocking, and sometimes it may seem like it’s not working. That’s usually because you need to turn the nut just a little bit more to make contact.

The 510 plate measures 22mm x 1.5mm x 10mm though, which is 0.5mm taller than the ModMaker 510 and 1mm wider for the threads. So if you’re looking to upgrade your mech mod from a ModMaker to the SVF 510, you’ll need to hack the mod a little bit.

I just got my new SVF v4 fully-engraved mod, and this new SVF 510 was already installed. So I have two unused SVF 510s that I will probably use to upgrade my ModMaker-based squonk mods.

Hmm… maybe not. I think I will keep them for brand new squonk mod projects, especially the ones I plan to get from Floris mods.

At the moment, I am not sure where you can buy these, but hold on and some websites may have them in stock.