In this video I want to give you an overview of mechanical squonk mods or mech squonkers. Just like regular mechanical mods however, these are not devices suitable for beginners.
In this video I show you my stabilized wood mechanical squonk mod made by RC Mods / Roman Chekorin. However, 3D printed mech squonkers also work the same way.
Mech Squonkers Vs Regulated Squonkers
Why would you want to choose a mechanical squonker over a regulated one?
Size matters, and the squonk bottle already takes up room equivalent to an 18650 battery. Therefore most regulated squonk mods will be a DNA75 or DNA40 setup, powered by a single battery.
Firing at 75w will cause your battery to drain very quickly, assuming you don’t get constantly nagged with the “weak battery” warning.
With a mechanical squonker, you can get way more than 75 watts. You can maximize your 24mm squonk RDAs with a dual coil build and get larger clouds. With a DNA40 or DNA75 squonk mod on the other hand, you’ll find yourself mostly limited to a single coil setup.
Building for Mechanical Squonk Mods
With no boards to control your vape, the amount of power you draw from your batteries will depend on the build that you have. A few guidelines on building for mech squonkers:
- Always use a high-amp battery, preferably something above 20 amps. You can always refer to the famous charts by “Battery Mooch”. Stay away from unknown batteries. The battery I use in this video is the Sony VTC5a capable of 30 amps.
- Keep your build between 0.2 – 0.1 ohm for a dual coil setup, or about 0.3 – 0.4ohm ohm for a single coil. Anything below 0.1 ohm is considered risky, and building at too high Ohms will not draw enough power from your batteries.
- Stick to round wire builds. Most Clapton coils will result in a longer ramps up time, because there’s more metal to heat up. A 24mm or 22mm squonk RDA will work well.
Mechanical Squonk Mod Maintenance
Unfortunately, no matter how hard you try you will get some juice inside your mods. If you do not clean it up, it can damage your battery or cause voltage drop.
With a mechanical squonk mod, it’s easy to take all the parts out and clean it up. In the video I show you exactly how to do it. The good thing about mechanical squonk mods is that the parts are so basic, you can replace them easily and your mods can last a lifetime.
I generally use:
- Damp towel for wood / stabwood surfaces
- Isopropyl alchohol / damp towel for plastic or 3D-printed mods
- Fine 1,500-grit (or 2,000 grit) sandpaper for the metal contact parts
The mech squonker in the video is a stabwood, and don’t want to use alchohol on the stab sirface.
Overall, I think a mechanical squonk mod can give you a great vape. Lot of clouds, lots of flavor. It can take you to heights a regulated squonk mod cannot. Check out more squonking video on my YouTube channel if squonking is your thing.
You can find my complete list of squonking RDAs to match your mechanical squonk mod. Most of the stuff I list there are very affordable.
This video was a part of my “Squonk Week” series. Here are the other squonking-related videos:
- Squonking 101 – What’s the big deal about squonking?
- DPM Li-Mo review – affordable high-end squonk mod
- Mechanical & 3D-printed squonk mods introduction
- The SJMY Split-R & X-tank clone – awesome squonking RDTA
- Best bottom-feeding / squonking RDAs 2017 list updated!
- Squonk bottles explained – Supersoft, ModMaker, Cappy v4 and more
- The squonk life – my thoughts and recommendations on squonking
- More squonking videos and reviews on my squonking playlist